Wonderland Trail
Circumnavigating Mount Tahoma* clockwise during Labor Day weekend 2019
Video of the drive to Sunrise to begin the Wonderland Trail in Washington State
We had no plans. But we were on a roll. Why squash that? After completing the John Muir Trail then the Tahoe Rim Trail, TAJ and I still had another week before needing to get back to work and with the Wonderland Trail so close to home, why not squeeze it in over Labor Day weekend? I thought it may be impossible to secure campsites for such a significant weekend for the PNW (school starts right afterwards for the Seattle area so a major push to get out in nature is strong during that holiday weekend). Would it hinder our efforts?
Surprisingly, that brisk morning the ranger on duty informed us that all but one of the campsites we requested held availability for our itinerary! Soooo, was camping out for an hour in the parking lot before the ranger station opened worth it? You bet. Keep in mind that if we wanted more days and nights camping out along the trail, finding sites would have been significantly more difficult. Meaning, walk up permits for a week long itinerary are next to impossible and you’ll need to plan well in advance or truncate your trip or be willing to stay at the not-as-comfy/awe-inspiring camps.
Also, the Wonderland trail is known as a trail that trail runners can run in one fell swoop eliminating the need to camp. Many of my own trail running buddies have! An easy trail to complete in two days if you prefer due to its short 90ish mile length (I almost typed and easy to navigate terrain but wisely looked up the elevation profile…don’t do that. It will scare you. Don’t be influenced by that number!), it really didn’t seem like there were intense climbs but you should get some hikes in before attempting this at least.
Anyway, we didn’t mind where we camped because we were going to see the views along the entire trail and pitching our tent didn’t have to be at an iconic campsite. If you want the low-down on which sites are best though, reach out! I don’t recall our reasoning for opting to hike in clockwise fashion. The variety along the trail is unparalleled and you can’t go wrong with whichever direction you choose. In addition, there are multiple options for alternate routes along sections of the trail and two visitor stations that offer perfect starting points. We began at the less busy Sunrise Visitor Center at the northeast corner or the trail, oddly echoing our Tahoe Rim Trail start. Our basic itinerary and outline of the experience is below along with all the pics your little heart desires.
*A note on the name: Mount Tahoma is the local Puyallup Tribe’s moniker of the mountain and means “the mother of waters.” I use it in this article to honor their rich heritage rather than use the common name of Mount Rainier that was given in 1792 by Captain George Vancouver after Rear Admiral Peter Rainier Jr.
Campsites:
Nickel Creek
Devils Dream
North Puyallup River
Carbon River
Sunrise to Nickel Creek - 20.9 mi
With our late start, we felt pushed for time and didn’t stop to take in the splendors of this particular section. There’s a reason Indian Bar Camp was an unattainable campsite for us—it’s the most stunning camp of the entire trail—the allure of this area between Summerland and Nickels Creek is well known. Skirting glaciers, you enjoy breathtaking views.
Note: Crossing the White River can be dicey depending on the time of summer you go. To avoid the log bridge when unpassable, walk along the road to safely cross the river.
Nickel Creek to Devils Dream - 18.8 mi
Reflection Lake
Only 14.8 miles to Longmire! Arriving by noon, we indulged in lovely treats from the Park store. The terrain westwards from Longmire to our campsite at Devils Dream was an easy, forested, and wide path. We could easily have pushed to the next camp or much further up along the west side of Tahoma. This situation of a fixed itinerary system that Rainier NP employs annoys those hiking the Wonderland. There is no flexibility if you get tired and can’t make it to your camp or if you’re feeling fabulous and want to extend your mileage for a day. Thru-hikers familiar with the open camping ability along trails like the PCT, Continental Divide Trail, or the Colorado Trail will struggle with this system, which is why I think a lot of people opt to run the trail instead of overnight.
Devils Dream to N. Puyallup River - 13.5 mi
Most days in this area of the world begin with a heavy marine layer that lifts in the afternoon. The morning we hiked this section we had the trail to ourselves and I spooked an osprey from its perch along a ridgeline. A classic day of hiking in the mountains; we roamed through meadows, meandered up open switchbacks to a ridgeline, passed pristine alpine lakes, and relished our solitude.
North Puyallup River to Carbon River - 23.1 mi classic/22.8 mi alternate Route
Spray Park Trail
Considered the remote section of the park, the rangers warn of bears throughout this section. We were rained on overnight and hiked along wet overgrown switchbacks through endless spiderwebs. Fortunately, Mowich Lake (14.8 mi) offers a huge parking area with picnic tables where we could spread our wares in the sun to dry while nibbling on lunch. No rain was in the forecast. ALWAYS be prepared for rain in the upper left. You cannot escape it no matter what the radar claims.
From Mowich Lake, you either take the classic route along Ipsut Creek or opt for stellar views of Tahoma by cutting down along the Spray Park Trail to Carbon River Camp. The mileage difference is minimal and most opt for this alternative, us included.
Carbon River to Sunrise - 14.8 mi
The lesser seen north face of Tahoma appears to be the most intriguing and lesser photographed view. I advise hiking this section to admire these open vistas, especially since I recall most of the mileage as downhill. Rounding out our journey amidst crowds at Sunrise wasn’t a big deal when we felt so accomplished.
Tahoma Views in Review
Overall, the Wonderland Trail is a dream many wish to accomplish. The variety of views, wildlife, and terrain easily makes it one of the most enjoyable treks in the nation. Although some of the roads into the Park are not snow free and open to the public until July, there are sections that are easily accessible so you can section this hike out over multiple trips/seasons/years. Hopefully, you take the opportunity to get out there!